If you want to replace the pickups and electronics, as above, you'll get the pickups from Status but consider putting in a John East 3 knob Uni-Pre pre amp. That will give you a much broader control of the tone and they are dead easy to fit, no soldering required.

https://www.east-uk.com/

You're welcome jmc27 ! ;-)
I'll try to post some pics of the electronics of my S1000 ASAP.

I think the PS1 (Pre-Set 1) active circuits should fit your bass. It can be ordered from the official Status Graphite website, as well as the J type pickups.

I have a 4-string Streamline currently under construction, and before it gets here ( in a couple months!) I want to have a nice stand ready for it.

I have numerous very nice Hercules triple stands - but they do not work with headless :-)

So I was wondering if any current (or former) Streamline owners could chip in and recommend 'the best stand for Streamline'.

I'm hoping for one of those A-frame typa stands, but a very STURDY one. I did a little scale mockup in Corel and it looks like the stand 'arms" would either have to be five or seven inches apart in order for the bass to be firmly seated.

I used to have a K&M years ago, was wondering if anybody here was using them for Streamline?

Something like https://produkte.k-m.de/en/product?info=1235&xca81f=ce413c3fdb25de5d28d8ab260f3ffc85

Bassfan has it right. The only difference between the two is the body. That is unless you specify your own differences on a build. I am lucky enough to have one of each. Both as good as each other.

I’m sure there’s others on here that are more knowledgeable than me, but when I went in to see the guys at Status the main difference for me was the countouring of the body. The s2 has a chamfered top, similar to a traditional Jazz.

trying to determine the differences between the 2 models. Help!

Thanks for the info chaps! And thanks Edmouk for the pic. Nice to know I'm not alone with this bass. A handsome beast for sure!
Btw - do you have any pics of the electronics and how they are supposed to look? The inside of mine looks like it was soldered by a tennager at school.
I guess I'll have to upgrade the pickups and the active circuit (which is missing from mine) someday.
J

It's rare but some of the Washburn S1000 seem to have been produced with rosewood fingerboard, like the one I bought 6 yeras ago.
Neck is more stable with rosewood than with phenolic fb, if it helps.

!00% Washburn. Nice looking bass. Pickups are not original which might go with the pre amp bit.

Sounds like a Washburn

truss rod cover is at the bottom of the neck btw...

here are some pics!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Cb7h6sdZY6DzUSXd7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GyFtkjEGeZfg3MLD8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2oAemeRfPGERVVg98

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NK9KE3QAbzZ7cPsy6

Pictures we need. I have read on the internet (so it must be true) that some composite fingerboards separated a bit from the necks. Might be what's happened to yours. Might not.

You're 100% sure it's a Washburn? Pictures would help with all this. Where is the trus rod cover?

Hello everyone!
This week I finally bought the chioldhood bass of my dreams - or near enough. Can't seem to justify buying a proper Status.
So a Washburn S1000 will sufrice!
Anyway - I have a question.
It has a rosewood fingerboard.
Is this normal? i always thought they have a composite fretboard on a wooden neck.
Anyway...
The wiring looks like it has been re-done by someone as there is no PCB in there and the tone control does nothing.
Plus I think the battery has been disconnected there is an un-connected red and black wire.
Anyone have a clue about this?
the serial number is S9106027...

Help me Obi-wan! J

Some more pictures.
The distance from fretboard to body is 7 mm all round so nothing sticks out or anything.

https://imgur.com/j0zwp5Y
https://imgur.com/gSx59ui
https://imgur.com/gX5tT1h
https://imgur.com/REtiO7p

Has anybody seen this before on a Status (Energy)?

https://imgur.com/8aCXfw7

Not used to see this on a Status.
All screws are tight as hell and nothing pulls out or anything...

My bass doesn't melt, I just warp it a bit

You can’t put the battery in the wrong way, it just won’t close!

Just keep playing until either everything works or your bass melts!

I can never remember myself when I change the battery, so don't worry about sounding stupid

OK, looking at the battery clip, put your fingernail under the edge where it says 'open', and pull outwards, the clip should hinge outwards.

When it is open, then lift the frame around the top of the battery, from the back, and the battery should be ready to remove. One thing is to remember how the old battery came out, as I could never find any markings as to where positive and neutral were.

Slot in the new battery, close the top of the frame and push the clip back in. As our small furry TV personalities might say 'Simples'

LED's battery compartments, can't get battery's out of the plastic housing, I can see which way it should open but I don't want to break it, is there something to press to release the part holding the battery in, sorry to sound stupid, but would rather find out than damage it, it's my first status bass, anyone help, thanks